Quiz time! What do Veneto (Italy), Napa (California) and the North Island of New Zealand all have in common? If you guessedthey all produce wine, you are correct. If you guessed that they are volcanic regions that produce white wine, then you are also right, damn smart. Ahead of the curve, even.

Now, why would proximity to a smoking crater influence a wine?

Volcanic soils are rich in calcium, iron and magnesium, as well as other elements, which can contribute to a wine’s minerality. These soils also allow water to be delivered to the roots of vines very slowly, which can be a lifesaver during a dry growing season when vines must rely on groundwater to survive. Oh, and they look cool, too: black never goes out of style.

Giovanni Ponchia, the lead oenologist for the Consortium of Soave Wines, is so passionate about the volcanic soils in the Veneto that several years ago he decided to gather wine folk from other volcanic wine regions to discuss what they all had in common. He called the assembly Vulcania, named for Vulcan the Roman god of fire, and it has met annually since 2009. The third edition of Vulcania, which has grown to include participants from around Italy and beyond, takes place next week in the town of Soave.

“Black soils are perfect for white wines,” says Giovanni......